Reticella Needle Lace
© Lorelei Halley 2011
Site Map Drawn Thread Work Hardanger Embroidery Pulled Thread Work Bobbin Lace
Needle Lace Learning Needle Lace Needle Lace Stitches Needlelace Tutorial Needlelace Tutorial 2 Needlelace Free Patterns
Needlelace Gallery Needlelace by Living Lacemakers My Needlelace Stitches of Point de Gaze
Reticella (also called Reticello) started as a form of drawn thread embroidery. Some fabric threads were removed, both horizontally and vertically. The boundaries of the cut areas would be stabilized in various ways with: satin stitching, 4 sided stitch, Italian hemstitch or square edging stitch. Then diagonal threads would be laid in to help keep the holes in the fabric from becoming too large or stretching, and then the holes would be filled with fancy stitching. As time went on the holes became larger and larger and a temporary scaffolding became necessary to stabilize the cloth while it was being worked. Eventually somebody realized that no woven fabric was needed as a permanent part of the work. According to Santina Levey in LACE, the transition to true needle lace occurred during the period 1565-1585. Initially designs were geometric, but eventually became more curvilinear.
I've worked several geometric pieces and the diagrams below show how I laid the foundation threads using the fil de trace and aemilia ars method. First I pricked pairs of holes straddling the design lines. Then I threaded the outline thread under the little bridges and tried to work out a pathway that would have all the trace threads connected so the lace wouldn't fall apart. I find that the most difficult part.
Simplest 205 and My Nine Square design 253 Triangle design
Each major line of the design must have at least 2 outline threads on it initially. But each of these lines must have a minimum of 3 foundation threads before it is finished with overcasting or buttonholing.
So here are the pathways I chose. These are not the only possible ways.
See http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/photo/albums/reticella-reticello-style-needle-laces for some other reticella needle laces. *
|2 passes around outer perimeter||Make 3 passes of the foundation thread along the major diagonal line, connecting it to the outer perimeter foundation threads.||The 3rd pass leaves you at the far end, opposite to where you started. From here start the final overcasting on this diagonal. I also worked the subsidiary buttonholed bars, and connected them to the perimeter outline threads.|
|When the overcasting reaches the center throw out foundation threads on the other major diagonal line.||When you have 3 passes of the foundation thread on the upper right diagonal, start the overcasting and subsidiary buttonholed bars.|
|The you reach this point, at left, you run 2 foundation threads for the center square and the final diagonals. These will be filled with solid stitches.|
|For this one see Silvia's blog for a simple reticella design worked in the aemilia ars method. There are 5 parts, and here they are sequentially:|
|I made this design by combining 2 small motifs from C. M. Ricci, DISEGNI DI TRAFORI, and I added the looped edging. *|
This pattern is from Cleofe Mingarelli Ricci, DISEGNI DI TRAFORI, page 24.
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html#books Look among the R's.
For questions go to http://needlelacetalk.ning.com/group/reticellareticello Joining is free.
© Lorelei Halley 2011 Created November 24, 2011.